A bevel gauge (shown above) is nice but by no means necessary. Set aside your file and look at the blade with some good back light. After one or two passes, you should be able to see the shiny new metal that you are exposing. You don’t need to push down hard, just enough to get the file to bite. When the file is cutting, you will feel resistance, that’s a good sign. You may need to make a 2nd pass before you really start to see and feel results. File only in one direction, in this case the push stroke.Ĭontinue this diagonal motion until you reach the other side of the blade.
#Drawit bevel full#
Most tools, however will require that you make multiple, overlapping strokes to sharpen the full length of the blade.Īfter your first stroke, lift the file and either return it to its starting position or place it slightly to the left of where you finished the strokeĭo not file in a back and forth motion, this will dull your file prematurely. If the blade you’re sharpening is short, one stroke may be all you need to reach the right side of the cutting edge. Remember, you’re pushing toward a cutting edge! If you’re a beginner, it’s not a bad idea to wear a glove on your dominant hand to protect against an unintentional slip. Push forward and across until you get near the bottom (or heel) of the file. Try to keep your wrists and elbows fixed and move from the shoulders and hips. Your second hand should rest on the top end of the file, where it helps maintain your angle and keep downward pressure even. Now, with slight downward pressure, push the file both up and across the cutting edge to the right (if you’re a lefty you’ll be pushing across to the left). It doesn’t have to be exact and can be fine-tuned later. Take a look at the bevel angle of the blade and tilt your file up or down to match the angle. Rest the tip of the file on the left side of the cutting edge of the tool. The more solid and balanced you are, the better your results will be. You might try putting your left foot slightly more forward than your right (opposite if you’re a lefty). Purchase a handle if the file does not already have one.įind a good, solid stance: knees slightly bent, feet somewhere between hip and shoulder width apart. We offer some nice sharpening files here, but they are also readily available in hardware stores. If you want to repair damaged tools by hand, add a double cut file to your kit. In most circumstances a single cut file will be your best choice.įor sharpening garden tools, I suggest using a single cut file that is 8-12 inches in length, with either bastard or second cut coarseness.Ī bastard file will cut faster, but I have come to like the smoother edge left by a second cut file.
Double cut files have teeth that cross each other creating a diamond pattern.ĭouble cut files remove metal very quickly and leave a rough cutting edge they are best suited to repairing damaged or very dull blades. Single cut files have cutting teeth that run in only one direction. You may also be presented with both single and double cut files. Commonly available grades include bastard (coarse), second cut (medium) and smooth cut (fine). Sharpening files come in a variety of grades and lengths.
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